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  • Wire Cut Out Tool

    Hey guys,

    We've been thinking now of bringing in a wire cut out tool for those speciality jobs and instances where were trying to save the glass.

    Its hard to tell from these videos how long the actual process takes. Can you do a windshield in 30mins of you had to with the wire system? Also what is the avg install time using the wire sys?

    How many installs/cut outs can you do with one roll of wire? What does your cost per job compare to using the wire sys instead of using cold knifes and extractors?

    So from your experiences which wire cut out tool should we buy... or should we even buy one?

  • #2
    MasterGlass,
    I may be able to help some as we have been in this market the longest, since 2007.

    The process is dictated by the adhesive system. Thick heavy urethane will take more effort and slower speed to cut. Our average time to cut a fixed glass part is under 5 minutes, this time will vary depending on the winder you use, manual or powered. We offer the only powered unit available.

    Wire is a single use product, average about 15 - 18 ft per windshield and spools range at 50m (164 ft) and 100m rolls. Cost per job is around $2.00 for wire and much less when using "string" as you can get 5 - 8 uses out of this material before you need to replace it.

    Wire or string?
    We were the first to market "string" for AGRR, now you have several choices from coated string to un-coated. Thin and thick. We tested all the variables to find what we think is the best. We found some coated string left contaminates on the cut urethane so we offer only un-coated string at this time.

    Wire cuts more efficiently but you need to protect the vehicle from damage, string stresses the urethane to failure, doesn't really "cut" it, so you don't need to protect the vehicle as much with string. String creates 30% to 50% more drag than wire so the power required increases by that much.

    New car designs are dictating the tool required to use to prevent damage. Most existing tools / techniques cut from the inside outwards, not good on open pinchweld, exposed edge glass parts. We don't think this trend will go back to moldings as it would be more expensive and add weight to the car.

    Keep in mind, the optimal process of cutting with wire or string is the angle the cutting element leaves the adhesive, you want a cutting angle near 0 or cutting back in the direction of travel. When the wire or string exceeds 90 it becomes less effective and requires more power to cut the adhesive.

    There are now more than 13 new manual winders that have come to market in the last 18 months. They are easy to build and bring to market as long as "YOU" are the motor.

    Test yourself for the tool you want. Raise your arm over your head and do a winding motion. No pain? You may want a manual tool. If you experience pain, you may want to get the powered version.
    We just loaded our new video showing the process with our product.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vdsWVwUwbQ

    Watch the various videos and see if you can see the tricks used. Fast forward, pre-cut urethanes, etc.

    Good luck.

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    • #3
      We are using & love GlassBot! Glassbot has great support, and they are always there if you have any questions.

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      • #4
        I bought an Equalizer Python a couple of years ago. I use it from time to time but it is not the go-to tool by any stretch.

        I don't work fast. My boss pays by the hour and specifically says he doesn't care about time as long as the job is done right. Having said that, the python adds twenty minutes at a minimum to any job I've used it one. The setup is slow and you have to continually reposition the winder to get the best angle on the cut. That has been partially alleviated by an additional pulley I bought from the Glass-bot guys. I use steel wire and as stated it is single use. When I run out I will try the string versions. And, the straight handle isn't ratcheting. So the closer to the edge you place the tool the more likely it is to hit said edge.

        So, the reason it isn't my go to tool is that even for me it adds too much time. But, there are some jobs you just can't beat it for.

        I like using it on any glass where all the edges are exposed ala the Jeep Wrangler. I also like using it to save an unbroken windshield. It's too bulky for quarter glasses in my opinion.

        I've heard good things about the wrd spyder and the glass bot. So, if I ever get the spare cash to upgrade I will go with one of those.

        Hope this helps.

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        • #5
          We've been using the Stripper. Works with both wire and cord and does a descent job. I like it on VW's, new Fords, and Chrysler's. Don't do like a major company and make it your only cutout tool, as it's a great addition, but shouldn't be your only. What little I've used it, I can still do an average shield in an hour start to finish.

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